FreeMeal's SC5 CAS

FreeMeal said:
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Very interesting approach. Previous approaches to get red colors out of underwear involved coloring a pattern solid, then layering a "glow" color over it with the color-all slot, but using a dithering technique instead of a solid color looks promising.

Your SC4 Taki 1P recreation is excellent, by the way. The emblem stickers achieve an accurate shape for the fishnet sections on the sides. The combination of a heart, the chest armor, and snakes (I think? Kind of hard for me to be sure from the picture) recreates the upper torso very well. The pauldrons are a little too big, in my opinion, and the curvature of the horns on the shoulders is a little too pronounced. On that note, what part of the body are they anchored to? I imagine anchoring to the chest doesn't let them move with the arms and with anchoring to either collarbone or shoulder you'd have to choose between the left or right side, not to mention that it's impossible to arrange one pair of horns anchored to either collarbone or shoulder such that it covers both. At any rate, this may be the best Taki recreation I've ever seen. I used to think my own was the best, but yours does a much better job of capturing the details from an original design than mine does of adding new detail.
 
Thanks, Pascuzzi! I chose those shoulders because I just couldn't decide. Do you have any suggestions? The extra items connecting the shoulder pads to the body are two sets of gold horns, on each collarbone. I could always move them down a bit.
 
FreeMeal said:
Thanks, Pascuzzi! I chose those shoulders because I just couldn't decide. Do you have any suggestions? The extra items connecting the shoulder pads to the body are two sets of gold horns, on each collarbone. I could always move them down a bit.
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When it comes to things like the shoulders, where I can't think of a way to recreate the details of an original design, I instead usually just incorporate something else that's still appropriate. For example, my Taki has thinner shoulder armor that complements the contours of the skintight suit, but you never find something like that on any of her 1Ps. I actually got the idea for those from her SC2 2P. If you could make a thinner shoulder armor for your design, you may not even need anything covering the collarbones. Are all your sticker slots occupied? If not, using stickers instead of the horns may also be an option.

I just now realized what was framing the heart. Those are actually part of the breastplate underneath. Here I was, thinking you had four pieces of special equipment: horns on each collarbone, the heart, and a pair of snakes framing it.
 
Freemeal, that program looks awesome dude. That was a really good idea to make that.

Also that info about the 100 ticks makes stickers so much easier. So good job on figuring that out.

Dude that color pattern thing is genius! I am ashamed that the answer to getting those colors has always been in front if me but I never thought of trying it trying it for SCV.

Thanks for the Ornstein and Smough formulas, the stickers should be a lot easier to pull off now.
 
Thanks, Davin. Although I just realized that female CAS have an extra body proportion"Chest" (breast size) which I've mistakenly left out of the program. I'll have to fix that in the near future.
 
Here's an attempt at red undies. Still a little purple. I think maybe having the red hood next to it makes it deceptively more convincing. Also, the sheen carries most of the effect, so it won't work as well on other items. Still trying.
iCUUkanAaEHbH.png
 
I noticed a typo on the word default if you haven't fixed that on later versions.

Also, you might be missing weapon colors if if I remember correctly.

Other than that, I am having great success with the formulas. The 100 ticks thing makes everything a lot easier.

I will be watching this post, keep up the good work. If you decide to make a dks2 character, try

SPOILERS



Nassandra the final boss in the game. The Smelter Demon, Head of Vengarl or the Lost Sinner are good ideas IMO so I'd like to see your future creations.
 
I'll look into that, thanks Davin. I'll try to make some fixes soon. Glad you're liking the formulas so far.

Thanks, Le_Bello. I don't know if it can go any further, because the pattern needs to scale down REALLY small I think to work. Like, so small it appears to be one color. I'll keep trying though.
 
FreeMeal said:
I'll look into that, thanks Davin. I'll try to make some fixes soon. Glad you're liking the formulas so far.

Thanks, Le_Bello. I don't know if it can go any further, because the pattern needs to scale down REALLY small I think to work. Like, so small it appears to be one color. I'll keep trying though.
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Have you tried the watermelon (green/dark green zigzag) pattern? That's the smallest scaling pattern we have.
 
Watermelon? Do mind saying exactly which one it is? Modern...? Is it DLC or is it in the base game? I'd love to try it.
 
Definitely not DLC. It's one of the basic patterns. It's not an actual fruit; it's zig-zagging lines of green and dark green. You can see it on my Ayane (mesh shirt) recreation and on my latest original, Mildred (stockings, really subtle). It's not dithering per se, but it still does the job well. The checker pattern doesn't really bother me though. Gives a kind of space-age kind of feel.
 
I'll try to help experiment with dithering too. The strongest red I made so far was:

Pattern: Basic 16
Color 1: 9:63, 15
Color 2: 9:1, 22
Color 3: 9:1, 22

on the rubber unitard.

I just noticed that the shininess of some clothes may be limiting the color saturation of our attempted dithering.
 
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I've done some more experimenting with the dithering and came to some conclusions. It gives you full control over the hue of a color, but not much control over the saturation of the colors. Red and orange colors are possible to make but they tend to look more greyish, dark, or whitish than normal red or orange. I think this is mostly caused by how objects tend to shine in the game. For example, I've tried dithering with almost all of the garments and found that the chain mail had the weakest red and orange.

As far as which pattern to used I mostly prefer the checkerboard pattern now since it can be very small and the color proportion can easily be balanced.

Onyyx said:
Quick question, how good do dithered costumes look in motion? As a rule dithering is only really used on still images, but I'm curious to see how well this actually works overall.
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It usually looks pretty good. It just looks a little grainy sometimes.

I haven't heard of any possible problems with dithering in motion before. It sounds interesting.
 
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Thanks guys. Retrotator1 is right, the dithering doesn't look bad at all. In fact, the more zoomed out the camera goes, the better the effect (slightly less grainy, and slightly more saturated). When playing a match you have to squint really hard if you did a good job to tell. I'm also having some trouble with getting super saturated reds. It's always sort of gray.

However, I did manage to make a decent orange today, using the pattern everyone talked about. The zig-zag, right?
iRJ2Zdn0XR6sC.png


Its noticeable when its up close like this, but mid match it looks much more solid.
 
I actually tried to recreate that (really cool) Taki but failed. How did you place those zipper stickers on her arms? Whenever I do it (axis, rotated by 90d), they become crazy stretched out.
 
I posted a formula of the latest Taki I made in the Request to go! thread, if you'd like. All I did was hit Reset on the zipper first before placing, rotated 90%, scaled it, then moved it horizontally so that the opening is on the underarm.
 
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