Raphael General Discussion / Q&A

Anyone got any good tips after a CH 3A? It seems that, depending on what moves of your opponent you interrupt (and how close they are), the opponent will get pushed back at different ranges. Sometimes BB will actually whiff because they bounce so far, and for some reason 3B is easily evaded by tapping 8 from the opponent. AA will obviously whiff. I hate that range.

CHing a QSing opponent with 3A may result in them bouncing away too far for BB to connect and makes 3B too steppable (weird tip property). Close range 3A CH will cause BB and 3(B) to be unsteppable which is what imo it was designed to do (guarantee a mixup between 3B and dash-grab).

The most reliable move to do after CH 3A appears to be 1A which tracks reliably to both sides if they QS, but is a pitiful 12 damage on CH. That move needs a buff pronto!
 
WuHT said:
Anyone got any good tips after a CH 3A? It seems that, depending on what moves of your opponent you interrupt (and how close they are), the opponent will get pushed back at different ranges. Sometimes BB will actually whiff because they bounce so far, and for some reason 3B is easily evaded by tapping 8 from the opponent. AA will obviously whiff. I hate that range.

CHing a QSing opponent with 3A may result in them bouncing away too far for BB to connect and makes 3B too steppable (weird tip property). Close range 3A CH will cause BB and 3(B) to be unsteppable which is what imo it was designed to do (guarantee a mixup between 3B and dash-grab).

The most reliable move to do after CH 3A appears to be 1A which tracks reliably to both sides if they QS, but is a pitiful 12 damage on CH. That move needs a buff pronto!
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I was also having a problem with this move being +11 on CH and still not having any follow-ups at this range.
I usually do 6BB after it because it will beat everything they try to do if they don't just block or crouch.
(Comes out at i1 in this situation)

There's a problem with it though at this range the second B will whiff often and you can't connect the BE combo on CH after that. It really sucks. A single 6B will interrupt everything for... like 8 damage.
 
3B can only be stepped if they get pushed far away enough. It may have to do with 3B having a terribly thin hitbox, but the animation where the opponent gets off the ground and begins their QS 8 may cause 3B to whiff. This only occurs at the same range where BB will fail to connect as well. For instance, what I noticed was that if you 3A pyrrha doing a 2A and score a CH, they will bounce farther than her doing a BB. The first scenario is outside of BB range and 3B will whiff if they attempt a 88. The 2nd scenario, both BB and 3B will hit her, which is what I believe how 3A should operate on CH.

I agree that 66B is only good when the opponent realizes that 3B and BB are force blocks (unless they GI).
 
WuHT said:
3B can only be stepped if they get pushed far away enough. It may have to do with 3B having a terribly thin hitbox
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Ah, I've been assuming that missing 3B was due to my input error.
Like Fendante I usually do 3B and then switch to using 66B, same as with SEB.
 
Reptile said:
I'm guessing this is the same range that the second part of 6BB whiffs.
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Yes, 6BB has issues where the first hit pushes them far enough so the 2nd hit does not connect and tip range appears to be it. I'd rather have at least the first hit connect than both whiffing though.

Mr.Hai said:
Ah, I've been assuming that missing 3B was due to my input error.
Like Fendante I usually do 3B and then switch to using 66B, same as with SEB.
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After SE B on block, its very easy for the opponent to QS anything raph has at that range (which is reasonable because its a 80+ damage move on hit). 3B imo should always connect against QS if 3A connects on CH. Its just a reliability issue that bothers me. Very similiar scenario with 22A on CH, except that 3B seems to be more reliable as a followup in the latter case.

Anyways, I wanted to bring up how mighty 6BB BE functions as a weapon clash. Considering how fast the first 2 hits are, you can usually beat other character's moves with it and the BE is guarnateed on NH!
An easy way to test this is after you 2K on NH against a pyrrha, just input 6BB BE. The pyrrha should try to execute BB as fast as she (probably set yourself to pyrrha and raph as AI) and pyrrha will not be able to block the 2nd hit and the BE portion!

Having 6B series as a threat after 2K on NH, which will beat anything non TC slower than i14, and beat via clash anything that is i14 is pretty awesome. Training your opponent to try a reverse mixup of TC, 2A or step allows you to actually react to their reverse mixup and punish accordingly.
 
Alright guys. I'm going to post my Raphael strategy. Can you guys give me some pointers if you see anything really wrong about it? I have a hard time against side-step when I play Raphael. I just can't trust his horizontals to do the trick...anywho...

Match Begins.
Option1-A: If opponent approaches, use 44B. If it hits, punish wake-up up with 66B(H)(see option 1-B)
Option1-B: If opponent remains defensive after 3 seconds, 66B(H). If it hits, A+B. If it is blocked, use preparation stance to launch out a 6AB(H) to punish start-up counters after block. Persist with BB(H), if it hits, persist BB(H) until Block or Duck.
If Blocked In Preparation BB(H): Shadow Evade K for Normal Guard. Shadow Evade B for Low Guard. If oppenent side steps during Shadow Evade, A to punish side-step. 66A+G(Merme De Vec) for GRAPPLE MIX-UP after punishing a side-stepped Shadow Evade.
If Ducked In Preparation BB(H): While in preparation, use 4 for a quick back-step and Guard Impact. If they try to punish with a B attack, they with get GI'ed. Leaving them open to Option1-B or better yet a BB(BE). If they a close to the ring's edge(both parties adjacent to the edge), preparation K(BE) will ring them out for the win. A viable option when your BB(H) out of preparation is duck is to use K or K(BE), the risk is great.

I use various other moves if the situation warrants. Such as using A+B for a defensive mix-up or using 77K or 77BB for toe-pokes to shave em' down. If they get wise to my pokey strategy, I just use 66A in lieu of 66B to punish side-step. I punish slow-verticals with 4A. Sometimes I use 33K or 33K(BE) for the same purpose. But my input is a little off sometimes and I whiff hard. Getting punished. I use everything in his arsenal. It's just the application I need help with. Input is kinda something I have to work on myself. My strategy is risky, but it hurts if it works.
 
at beginning of the match you should test what opponent does in the first match:
back or sidestepping is a good start and notice what opponent does:

If he backstep and continue to retreat dash into 66A or B
If he backstep in 8wr 236B should hit
If he sidestep/QS 66A

He could have faster move than raph on opening (see astaroth and few others) in this case just do not attack.
In no circumstance 44B is a good beginning tool its too risky a whiff could cost too much anche chances to whiff are high.

On prep:

ON HIT:
If you hit BB is guaranteed then you can stop the prep, prep K if you think they will attack or step or SE if you don t know what to do but only if range is optimal.

ON BLOCK:
Here it depends on the prep entry

66B and 44AB will hit any attempt of counterattack or step (Excluding TC), in this case you should be safely retreat and SE on their whiff or in some case prep K (this will beat step and 8wr but not QS also will beat any attack on 66B blocked).

6BB
-just pray :D retreat is the best option if they block a 6BB you are really in troubles because prep4 won t space that much.
-B could surprise them

3B
At tip
SE or retreat
otherwise BB,B could work used sparingly...



Also when i have priority a 11,33,22 input will give you mixup for 11K/33K,BE/22B and catch their step remember you have throws and 2A, 22A also

A+B,A could be used too expecially if they try to jump last A you can deal quite a lot damage (you will probably be able to A+B, QS into 33K,BE,CE).
 
Why do you have all these different colours? It makes it very hard to read what you are typing. Don't use (H) for hold, the common notation that everyone took the effort to learn and use is 66(B), not 66B(H). It is confusing because H can mean "high" or something else.

Anyways, the one thing you need to know is that - if you are playing against a human opponent - they will actively try to react and adapt to whatever flowchart you are proposing. While it's nice to beat up on someone worse than you, a flowchart can't be followed like a bible.

However, a flowchart can show you what options are least risky and most rewarding.

In fact, the best way someone can help you learn is by poking as many holes in your strategy as possible so you can see it for yourself and hopefully adapt accordingly.

For your option 1-A--> what will you do if opponent approaches and then blocks your 44B ? What will you do if your opponent runs forward, then quickly dashes to the side ?

For your option 1-B--> Against an opponent who starts moving left and right, what will you do ? Or if they block your 66B and then use a crouching attack move ?

I honestly I don't know if you can actually react to someone QSing into guard when you enter SE to fire a SE A in time. You're probably at the point where you need to judge your opponent's tendencies, the environment, and the spacing.

darkfender said:
A+B,A could be used too expecially if they try to jump last A you can deal quite a lot damage (you will probably be able to A+B, QS into 33K,BE,CE).
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A+B into B+K is pretty awesome if they do 8B.
 
A+B into B+K worked for me times ago...now people is throwing things like 8K ad such, stepping into 33K,BE or 33KB beats more options...

It also gives you time to decide if attacking during 8wr with said options or just stop.
 
Hey guys, I noticed in the video thread that people were using Prep BB instead of Prep B(B) sometimes. When is that appropriate, and why should one do this?
 
WuHT said:
Why do you have all these different colours? It makes it very hard to read what you are typing. Don't use (H) for hold, the common notation that everyone took the effort to learn and use is 66(B), not 66B(H). It is confusing because H can mean "high" or something else.

Anyways, the one thing you need to know is that - if you are playing against a human opponent - they will actively try to react and adapt to whatever flowchart you are proposing. While it's nice to beat up on someone worse than you, a flowchart can't be followed like a bible.

However, a flowchart can show you what options are least risky and most rewarding.

In fact, the best way someone can help you learn is by poking as many holes in your strategy as possible so you can see it for yourself and hopefully adapt accordingly.

For your option 1-A--> what will you do if opponent approaches and then blocks your 44B ? What will you do if your opponent runs forward, then quickly dashes to the side ?

For your option 1-B--> Against an opponent who starts moving left and right, what will you do ? Or if they block your 66B and then use a crouching attack move ?

I honestly I don't know if you can actually react to someone QSing into guard when you enter SE to fire a SE A in time. You're probably at the point where you need to judge your opponent's tendencies, the environment, and the spacing.



A+B into B+K is pretty awesome if they do 8B.
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I didn't say it was flawless, dude. That's why I'm posting my general strategy. I NEED ASSISTANCE. Excuse me for not know the proper notations, as I just kinda started taking the Soul Calibur series seriously. I'm not some cool 8+ year veteran of Soul Calibur like everyone else here. A little slack would be a appreciated, bro.
 
It'd be better to put up a video of you playing in order to get some advice with decent precision.
 
darkfender said:
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My best advice is to drop the flowchart thing as soon as you can. Flow charts give you an okay offensive perspective and a terrible defensive perspective. This is especially true for Raphael, where all of your defensive options are exceptionally risky and can spell disaster if done at an improper time. You need to look at every situation as a unique one, and weigh each option on its merits at that moment. Flowcharting with Raphael just makes you predictable, and a predictable Raphael is a dead Raphael.
 
Switchblade922 said:
I didn't say it was flawless, dude. That's why I'm posting my general strategy. I NEED ASSISTANCE. Excuse me for not know the proper notations, as I just kinda started taking the Soul Calibur series seriously. I'm not some cool 8+ year veteran of Soul Calibur like everyone else here. A little slack would be a appreciated, bro.
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He wasn't trying to be mean. He was giving you assistance. That's why he asked you all those questions. It's to make you think about all of the options you have and all of the possible moves your opponent can make. Calm down.

The first thing you should do when you start taking a fighter seriously and asking for help is learn the basics. This includes notations. Here's a guide on notation, and here's a guide on getting in the mindset of competitive play. Feel free to ask anyone here if you have any Raph specific questions.
 
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