Automotive Help

Dave i'm looking for a really good upper and lower intake for a 87 mustang 5.0. any suggestions

At last...a 5 liter...I love 5.0's

Depends on quite a few things. What else you got done to the motor. Manual or automatic. did you change the rear end gears if so what ratio. is it an LX or a GT? and how much money you wanna spend. I could go on and on.....

Assuming theres virtually nothing done to the engine: a favorite amoung us mustang guys for the almost stock engine, is the cobra intake. it flows some 500cfm better than stock, as way bigger intake ports and is not ported and polished but all the usually rough casting from the inside is smoothed out. set up looks like this http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl..._GnCg&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=19&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0

whoa thats a long ass link.

Teamed up with 40lbs injectors and a nice 70mm throttle body, and a nice COLD AIR K&N intake set up (just cause you got a K&N filter, doesnt mean you have a great intake system) should put out an additional 60 or so horsepower. You can typicall find these little gems on craigslist, junk yards things like that. They are not that hard to find.

On top of that the cobra intake has enough meat to port them even more than they already are. Be careful with this cause it takes more than just a port job to make it work properly.

If you do run that kind of set up, there is prolly some ECM mods you gotta do to maximize your hot rods potential.

a factory motor (no matter who makes it) is designed to handle a certain amount of air, fuel and spark. By modifying any of these 3 things, the other 2 have to be able to work with the new delivery in order to work properly. For example. You change your intake, well now you have more fuel and more air being forced into your motor. Now you have to do something with it! Horsepower is measured by how much air and fuel you can suck in, fire off and escape out of your motor. With all this extra fuel in air coming in, you gotta be able to fire it off (bigger and better ignition system, distributor, coil, cires things like that) and get it out of your motor (headers, pipes, mufflers, cats) as fast as possible.

Hot Rod Dave's 3 steps to cheap power:

#1 a nice intake system, Manifold, filtration system, fuel delivery.
#2 a nice flowing exhaust system. Flowmaster mufflers, headers (fox body mustands come with headers from the factory so your already partially there) and nice flowing pipes (enlarge them from its stock 2inch to a 2.5 or 2.750 pipes) and high flow cats.
#3 rear end gear ratio. a stock GT mustang comes with a 2:73 gear ratio. For mild engines a 3:08 is a nice gear but 3:73.....holy shit get ready to be thrown back in your seat!!

Being that Ive had 7 mustangs throughout my life. Those 3 things on your 87 (Ive had an 87, 85, 66. 65, 72, 93, & a 68) those 3 things are a great option for cheap power. All this stuff (if you do the labor yourself) prolly cost bout $3000, a good chuck of change but WELL worth the money.

I could go on and on bout 5.0's, cams, cranks, and heads will be for lesson #2....lol but right now ima play some cod and go to fuckin bed!!

HRD

LOL...its not my choice. My wife makes me play and she HATES watching me play SC....bitch! dont tell her I said that!!

HRD

its a LX with t-tops and i got it for 500 bucks. it already has the mass air sensor, k&n air filter and custom exhaust. its a 5 speed and runs like a bat outta hell already but i know that my fuel system is my weak link. my friend runs a trickflow setup and it works very good but i was just looking at all options. i know the cobra setup is prolly cheapest but if the others offer a better hp vs cost ratio i would consider spending the extra cash.

i believe it has 373 gear ratio as the shifts are very short. i've had stock 5.0 before and my gears always pull longer so im assumming thats what i got.

Trick flow set ups are nice. really expensive for what you got. Trick flows work best when you have the other stuff to go with it, a pretty thumpy cam, mass air flow, injectors things like that. A cobra set up is a nice upgrade without having to spend the extra cost on all that. If you got the money, aint nothing wrong with that though.

If your homeboy has a trick flow intake, and no mass air and throttle body and injectors to go with it, then he couldve gotten a cobra intake with the same results. a nasty cam to keep up with all that air and fuel is almost a nessecity!

If you had 3:73 gears in the rear end, you should be tachin around 3200 to 3500 at 65mph on the freeway. If shifting seems shorter, it is most likley that you got 3:08 gears. Still a good gear to have, I actually liked it cause I could cruise and drive it everyday without having to tach out at 4000 rpm going around town.

HRD

Holy-piece o shit car-Batman *wipes sweat from brow*

If you were to pack that bearing with grease, dirt and shit will get stuck in the grease and make that thing fail really quick. are you sure its the idler pulley? you got tensioner pullies and AC pullies and such. you can try spraying a little white lithium grease on the back of the pulley. Comes in a aerosol can, be sure to get that and not the greasy stuff.

If that alters the noise in anyway, id take it off and take it back and get a new one. shouldnt be a big deal to exchange it for another one. Hell I guess what your looking for is where the noise is coming from, wd40 or something would be fine to.

Theres an old trick amoungst mechanics....take a really long screw driver, piece of pipe something like that, start the engine, rest one end of the srewdriver on the suspecting pulley (oviously if its the idler touch what it mounts to, water pump on the shft, basically nothing moving) and the other end on your ear and listen for screaching noises. Basically the screwdriver will act like a stethascope. Listen for screeching, grinding, anything that sounds different that the rest! Make sense?

My 68 wasnt a fastback, my 66 however was. I had a shitload of money invested in that car. I had a 88 5.0 fuel injected roller motor in it, NASTY cam, gears, paint body work the whole fuckin 9 yards. I had to had at least $20k into that car. And I do most everything myself. I let my little brother take it to his prom to impress his chick and he wrapped around a telephone pole for me!

I thought that was the saddest day of my life, until I read what happen to your families little collection. Those have to be some of my favorite cars ever. Ive always been a ford guy and OMG that shelby.....oh that shelby is my second most favorite car out of any car that exists. I shed a tear just now. Im not to much of a corvette kinda guy. The only ones I like are 55-66. When they went to the sting ray style, I havent liked any since. I do appreciate a rare and decent car though. 69 427 i assume.

At my machine shop, I do work for a guy name Crane's Corvettes http://www.cranescorvette.com/, what he does is, he scours the world in search of 327, 427 blocks cranks and heads. If you are a collector and need an engine with the right serial numbers that match your car, he does that for you. He sends me the block, I make the old #'s go away on the surface of the block, he stamps the right date code, horse power code on that block EXACTLY like the factory did it back in the day. Then I get to find all the correct rods, intake (usually tri powers) oil pan etc, and assemble a vintage motor. I really get a kick out of it. here is my shop http://wamenginesd.com/, and theres a pic of me hard at work http://wamenginesd.com/id5.html.

So when your in need of rare parts for your vette (mostly engine parts) with serial #'s and everything that match your car (making it so much more valuable) lemme know, I know a guy!!

HRD

Holy shit a country squire wagon. Funny story.

I used to half own an alignment/brake shop. Had this old man pull in his squire wagon that was barley running. Asked me to check out the brakes and suspension. From sitting in a field for 10 years, everything was ruined and needed to be replaced. Total on his estimate was well over what the car was worth. He looked at me and said "Son...You go ahead and replace what needs to be replaced. But I want I dont want it back stock. I want custom suspension, I want it lowered, I want cross drilled and slotted rotors, convert the back brakes to disc, change the rear end to a ford 9inch, and I want your custom made control arms on it." I used to make customer suspension parts for hot rods and off road trucks.

I looked at him like he was crazy. So a common trick in this business is to ask for a deposit to see if the guy was serious or not. He handed me a credit card and told me to run it for $9000 and he would pay the rest when it was done.

$17,000 later in all tricked out suspension, rear end, brake converstions and all, he came and picked it up. He said he was gonna make a hot rod out of it. I didnt really believe him.

bout a year later I hear this monster of a car pulling up to my shop. Ill be damned if it wasnt that damn country squire sounding like it was ready to launch off an air craft carrier. That thing sounded so fuckin mean it got me an erection!!

So I appreciate cars no matter if its ford, chevy, chrysler (i am more partial to american stuff) but anything that someone has put some heart and soul into. Makes me smile everytime!

HRD

LOL I used to race BMX bikes here San Diego when I was a youngster. I was county champion back in 93. Then I discovered drugs and cars. I also played baseball and had a promising future in that. LESSON: dont do drugs, drugs are only temporarily fun but ruin lives.

After high school I was tho only one out of my little click of friends that stayed in the automotive world. All my other friends went into construction. Now that the economy took a shit, all my friends (at least the ones I still talk to) are all unemployed and struglling to find work. I used to be all jealous cause they were getting married, buying houses, boats and hot rods whole I was living paycheck to paycheck.

Doesnt everyone ride bikes in japan. Im so envious of you getting to live there. Japan is one of the places I must visit before I die. But I wanna see all the old temples and stuff, and do most of the "tourist" stuff. my wife is 1/4 japanese does that count....lol. How come you moved from LA to there. Family there? Were you really born in 67, makeing you 11 years older than me? I thought I was the oldest fart on this site. Is it cheaper to live there than in say LA or america in general. I hear the job market is much better. Im so curious bout japan, I always have been

Now Im 32 and have been in this business to long and dont know how to do anything else. Give me a wrench and a screwdriver, Im your guy. Give me a hammer and a nail, Im fuckin retarded.

Saved up almost enough money to get another hotrod. Ive had my eye on this guys 55 ford crown vic. looks very close to this. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.greaterdakotaclassics.com/sold/images/55_ford_vic/55_ford_vic1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.greaterdakotaclassics.com/sold/soldcars/55_ford_vic.htm&usg=__enN3oxgG5V4oyWw5RjAzBCbg-To=&h=276&w=578&sz=61&hl=en&start=40&sig2=uft-SUPYhH-YHySzwxvb-Q&zoom=1&tbnid=hTDjFQBaZCkDVM:&tbnh=76&tbnw=160&ei=Fs5WTb6cA5PmsQOavsGeDA&prev=/images?q=1955+ford+crown+victoria&hl=en&sa=X&biw=1024&bih=705&tbs=isch:10,971&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=438&vpy=342&dur=401&hovh=152&hovw=319&tx=127&ty=73&oei=9M1WTcPvJY7GsAOMwOiXBQ&page=3&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:40&biw=1024&bih=705

Ima make a rat rod out of it. Have it all lowered on whitewall tires. Ive had a motor built for it for bout 2 years now. Its a 347 ford stroker motor. AFR aluminum heads with 2.02 intake valves 1.6 exhaust and 64cc heads, 13:1 compression pop up pistons, h-beam rods, a cam with over .550 of lift and a lobe seperation of 108 for a nice choppy idle that will sound like it barley idles at the stop light. Roller rockers, roller lifters and roller cam to go with it. Edelbrock performer intake 700cfm demon carburator.

I still have all the tools to make my own custom suspension. Ill be able to have over 10 degrees of caster and +/- 6 degress of camber for ultimate handling.

Stroker engines are pretty much like it sounds. For a Ford stroker, you start with a 302 block bore it .030, and take out the 5 3/4 stroked crank shaft and install a crank & connecting rod set up with a 6 inch stroke. Allowing the piston to come up a quarter inch closer to the combustion chamber. The basic idea is to be able to compress a lot more air and fuel and fire it off a smidge faster!! Giving the engine more tourqe more cubic inches (cubic inches is PARTLY measured by crankshaft stroke + bore size then multiply all that by how many cylinders you have, in my case 8).

Anyone can take a car and put a bad ass motor in it. But I go above and beyond that. I have serious body mods Im gonna do to make people look at it twice and go WTF? I will be making the doors suicide (make the open from the front) I like to shave my doorhandles (making it appear that the car never had door handles) and hook up a solenoid to my key remote that pops open the doors for me. I will also shave the gas door and make it so that it is hidden in the door jams. Remove the front headlights and take headlights off a 56 cadillac and mount them in (cadillac headlights have a more sleek and squared off design that takes the crown vic and really does something nice to the body lines, Ill have to work with straight lead to fill in gaps and holes, but when Im done you will think that they were always there.) Ive always love the bench seats that come in the newer for F150's. Ill be putting that in there. leaving the back seat alone and having it all re-upolstered red with black piping along the edges. The paint will be a flat black with custom hot rod pinstripping that my buddy does. Looks really sick. It will for sure be worthy of taking the family out to the cars shows and cruise nights

Ok ok. Ive rambled on enough. Theres only a few things in life I like more than playing SC, Its my hot rods and my family.

HRD

How much should I expect to pay to replace a crankshaft seal? 95 camaro 3.4

Front or rear seal.....Ill look it up for both.....stand by!

Front Seal:
Calls for 1.1 to 1.5 hours of labor....My shop rate is $80 per hour. Part is less than $10

Rear Seal:
Requires pulling out transmission (or at least moving it out of the way) so its a little more labor intensive. Calls for 3.0 to 3.5 hours of labor.Once you remove the tranny out of the way, the rear main seal is in a circular housing that un-bolts from the crankshaft. Part is also prolly less than $10

Im curious to know what they were gonna charge you and what all that included!!

HRD

So the rear seal is connected to the tranny?

ummm...No. Its attached to the back of the engine. But the tranny covers it up so you have to remove the tranny to access the rear seal.

HRD

Weeeell I'm not sure which one it is but I can see it, I guess ill find out! Thanks

If you can see where its leaking from, then Im guessing your looking at the front of the engine. You should be looking at the radiator area. You wouldnt be able to see the rear seal without crawling under the car

HRD