Stupid mechanics thread

Okay.. So I FINALLY got the attention of the Ford instructor here, so I could hook up the ford factory scan tool for OBD1.

Okay... So the only codes I have are bank 1 running lean, and Oxygen sensor 1 "not switching fast enough". This seems pretty definitive, however...

We drove down the road with the scan tool plugged in, and both 02 sensors seemed to be acting normally. They hung around .1 V when cruising and .9 V at WOT. The thing is, both of them seemed to be switching from lean/rich at the same rate, but...

Edit: I forgot to mention that this car does NOT have a post-CAT o2 sensor.

If there is a DTC for o2 sensor not switching fast enough, then there MUST be a problem, right?

Also, bank 1 running lean could just be the 02 sensor giving the PCM a false signal. Can't afford an o2 sensor just yet :(

About the brake booster. What I did was I just ran the car for a few minutes, shut it off, unplugged the vacuum line to the booster and I got a nice hissing sound, which meant that the booster was holding pressure like it was supposed to. Also, I get about 3 smooth brake pushes after the car is cut off before it gets stiff. As far as I can tell the booster and the check valve are doing exactly what there supposed to..

Oh and one other thing, the DPFE is not what you think it is. MAP sensors measure intake manifold pressure. The DPFE on my car measures exhaust manifold pressure, the PCM then uses that signal to determine when to open up the EGR valve. It does NOT have anything to do with fuel trim like a MAP sensor does.

I've had 3 instructors confirm it now, even the guy who teaches ford, there is indeed no MAP sensor on that car.
 
damn-I-Suck said:
Okay.. So I FINALLY got the attention of the Ford instructor here, so I could hook up the ford factory scan tool for OBD1.

Okay... So the only codes I have are bank 1 running lean, and Oxygen sensor 1 "not switching fast enough". This seems pretty definitive, however...

We drove down the road with the scan tool plugged in, and both 02 sensors seemed to be acting normally. They hung around .1 V when cruising and .9 V at WOT. The thing is, both of them seemed to be switching from lean/rich at the same rate, but...

Edit: I forgot to mention that this car does NOT have a post-CAT o2 sensor.

If there is a DTC for o2 sensor not switching fast enough, then there MUST be a problem, right?

Also, bank 1 running lean could just be the 02 sensor giving the PCM a false signal. Can't afford an o2 sensor just yet :(

About the brake booster. What I did was I just ran the car for a few minutes, shut it off, unplugged the vacuum line to the booster and I got a nice hissing sound, which meant that the booster was holding pressure like it was supposed to. Also, I get about 3 smooth brake pushes after the car is cut off before it gets stiff. As far as I can tell the booster and the check valve are doing exactly what there supposed to..

Oh and one other thing, the DPFE is not what you think it is. MAP sensors measure intake manifold pressure. The DPFE on my car measures exhaust manifold pressure, the PCM then uses that signal to determine when to open up the EGR valve. It does NOT have anything to do with fuel trim like a MAP sensor does.

I've had 3 instructors confirm it now, even the guy who teaches ford, there is indeed no MAP sensor on that car.
Click to expand...


This is EXACTLY why I stick to older hot rods, performance engines and older cars in general. To many years of spending hours and hours to figure something out, only get paid for an hour of it. Not saying this is taking you hours and hours or anything, but i have had it happen way to many times that I spent most of the day trying to figure something out, and then some pipsqueek service writer only charges the customer an hour of diag time.

Mechanics are the first to get fucked in the shop. Cause that mother fuckin POS customer is "always right"
 
So Im a stupid mechanic myself. Aside from the countless stupid things ive done, sometimes its the decisions we make that make us half way retarded.

So I have this customer that is 88 years old, he works out of his barn restoring model T & A fords. Im humble when he comes in cause he still to this day, barley able to move around, still gets his hands dirty and does it in ways that are over 100 years old. He still pours babbit for his engine bearings, uses lead to blend in headlights to fenders for custom body work and has taught me priceless techniques for working on cars.

Hes been bugging me into buying an old ford and be apart of his car clubs and stuff. So I did something really stupid last week and bought this...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369620861.356940.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369620898.052202.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369620924.616122.jpg


Its a 1920 ford utility. Complete with wooden bed, wooden wheels, the headlights closer to the windshield actually used a candle and flame set up, and to start it, you have to crank the handle in the front. It has old license plates patching some of the body together. But the 96 cubic inch flathead engine actually runs! Not with puking coolant everywhere but it runs. I can work with that.

I have intensions of getting rid of the wood wheels and replace them with street rims and tires. Mustang II front suspension and a shortened 9 inch with coil overs in the back. The engine will prolly be a small block chevy with a turbo 350 trans. Nothing to crazy.

The body i think im gonna leave mostly the way it is. Complete with the 80 year old wood and rusting fenders. That was my favorite part of the whole thing. The body just has so much character and history. Gotta represent.

My wife is extraordinarily pissed at me. Hence my "stpuid" moment!!
 
This thread is FAR too manly for me!

I'm off to sleep in my double bed with 5 blankets and like 30 cuddly toys

toodles!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back