Questions about arcade stick for SCIV

TetsuyaHikari

[09] Warrior
So, Christmas is coming up and there's not many games I want this year, so..I'll have about $50 - $100 saved I could spend on an arcade stick for SCIV. However..I am actually clueless about this, so I was hoping you guys could help me out. First off, I'd like to say that I have never used an arcade stick before (sure, I've played some arcade games, but I'm not accustomed to using the stick consistently).

So, with that being said, could you please tell me what the pros and cons are for making the switch from a controller to stick? The reason I hadn't picked one up prior to this was because I am a little intimidated by the layout. It seems complex to me, compared to a controller anyway.

I'm afraid that I won't be able to learn how to use it or I will have to start from scratch and look like a noob, despite knowing how to play the game with a controller. So, is the transition a bit slow at first or does it depend on the user? I'm also afraid of not being able to hit some buttons or have complications hitting them because they are so far apart from each other (like if I wanted to push A+G at the same time).

For what it's worth, I'm also considering on jumping into Super Street Fighter II Turbo HD Remix and Tekken 5: Dark Resurrection Online, so I'd be looking for an arcade stick which would be good for all sorts of fighters, not just specifically for SCIV. If anybody has recommendations based on what has lasted you the longest period of time or could just help pointing me to the right direction since I'm new to this, I would appreciate it.

Here are a couple I found on Play-Asia earlier. Does anybody know the quality of these?

HORI Fighting Stick 3 ($49.90):
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HORI Real Arcade Pro Stick (White) ($129.90):
pa1308201.jpg
 
Nevermind guys. I just talked with one of my friends about this since nobody replied back with input, lol. It looks like I'll be going with the HORI Fighting Stick 3 for starters and see how it goes from there.

If I like what I see, then I'll consider going for the Arcade Pro or something better.

Mods, feel free to go ahead and lock this up.
 
Actually Ive never used one either and I was having similar question swirl about upstairs but I eventually settled with a nyko zero controller instead just because Ive had previous experience with it and know how well the dpad is for fighters... although

Looking at a arcade stick it would make since that it would probably be alot easier to use that a controller in the since of responce time to a specific button where as you have 4 fingers on it instead of 1 (1 finger for each row of buttons starting with index ending with pinky?) kind of like typing in the since that pick typing is alot slower than real learned typing...

I could be wrong though in how im looking at using it...
 
I recommend getting a good stick to begin with, especially if you want to get into 2d fighters. It's cheaper in the long run if you plan on using a stick and a lot less frustration (and you don't feel like you wasted money).

Oh, and amazon has preorders up for hraps. 100 dollars for the ps3 version, definitely a good investment if you were getting the fs3 anyways.
 
The HFS3 is fine, if you replace the hori square gate with a sanwa one and replace the buttons with sanwa or seimitsu, it'll still be cheaper than a HRAP and, imo, better at that price.
 
Unless you have a friend to do it for you for free, or you already have the tools and are adept at projects like that, its way easier to mod out a HRAP with sanwa buttons then to mod the hfs3 to full sanwa, at relatively the same price.
 
If you wait til feb, the Madcats SF4 sticks coming out look like they'll give you good bang for your buck.

There's a white stick that's $70-80.

41yjqtAHDeL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Red and black version has full arcade parts (aren't going to have to be swapping buttons sticks etc around) though it's pricey at $150.

Personally, sticks were a rough transition for me. Took about six weeks before I felt like the controller wasn't holding me back vs a control pad. Still get 236 motions more consistently on a pad. Tapping motions like 46, 66 are loads easier on a stick tho.
 
The Madcatz stick looks nice but for $150 you can get a HRAP3 and mod it yourself. I see it also has the same problem (IMO) that Hori sticks have with the stick being way too close to the buttons.
 
The Madcatz stick looks nice but for $150 you can get a HRAP3 and mod it yourself. I see it also has the same problem (IMO) that Hori sticks have with the stick being way too close to the buttons.
Honestly, for that money, I'd be more inclined to just have a custom made. (I'm getting tired of how static prone Horis are.) But then, I've been using sticks enough now so that I know what I want.

For someone just starting out who doesn't even know if they want to use a stick, going top shelf doesn't necessarily make a lot of sense. Sticks take a long time to adjust to, and not everyone has the patience or frustration threshold to make a stick work for them. (I didn't the first few attempts. Ended up selling three sticks I'd bought just 'cause I couldn't get used to 'em.) If that proves to be the case, then you are left with a $130+ paperweight. The $60 stick's functional enough to get your feet wet, and the performance bonuses a really good stick nets you are lost on beginning stick users.
 
Yeah, I definitely don't feel like playing $100+ for a stick if I'm not even absolutely certain I'm going to get into it. I mean, this is my first time and all, so despite wanting to make the transition, for all I know..I may just not have the patience to do it. That's why I'm going to just go with the HFS3 for now and see how it goes from there.

If I like what I see, then feel like taking a step up, I'll go for a HAPS3 or just mod one with full Sanwa parts (I heard these are very reliable and sensitive).
 
I'd like to know more about this, what do you mean by static prone?
I'll get up from my couch, and it tends to build up a static charge. If I forget, and touch the stick without zapping some other hunk of metal, the stick wigs out from the resulting shock. Then you get fun stuff like buttons randomly going dead, BL Dave's stick dropped a directional input while we were playing etc. You can fix it by unplugging the stick, then plugging it back in, but it's annoying that it happens at all.
 
I'll get up from my couch, and it tends to build up a static charge. If I forget, and touch the stick without zapping some other hunk of metal, the stick wigs out from the resulting shock. Then you get fun stuff like buttons randomly going dead, BL Dave's stick dropped a directional input while we were playing etc. You can fix it by unplugging the stick, then plugging it back in, but it's annoying that it happens at all.

You're lucky you were able to fix it. Back in the SCII days I picked up one of these: http://ps2.ign.com/articles/381/381807p1.html . The damn thing is so static prone, I permanently fried the circuit board just by standing up from my recliner with it in my hand. Sent it back for replacement and the same thing happened to the replacement. Rather than deal with the hassle of sending it back again, I hacked a cheap PS1 pad PCB into it to get it working again, and even that ended up fried by static eventually. I put a 4th PCB in it, then set it aside and haven't used it much since. Last time I tried it, one of the buttons wasn't working. Not sure if the microswitch just died, or if the PCB is dead yet again.

-=The Jesster: Gatchaba Goose=-
 
You're lucky you were able to fix it. Back in the SCII days I picked up one of these: http://ps2.ign.com/articles/381/381807p1.html . The damn thing is so static prone, I permanently fried the circuit board just by standing up from my recliner with it in my hand. Sent it back for replacement and the same thing happened to the replacement. Rather than deal with the hassle of sending it back again, I hacked a cheap PS1 pad PCB into it to get it working again, and even that ended up fried by static eventually. I put a 4th PCB in it, then set it aside and haven't used it much since. Last time I tried it, one of the buttons wasn't working. Not sure if the microswitch just died, or if the PCB is dead yet again.
Yeah, they seem to have improved them a bit in the sense that they actually recover from the shock now. I've fried three dual shock controllers just by standing up from a couch in a similar manner. Really, really hate those static shocks. Thankfully cordless controllers don't seem to be as prone, or else Sony just started building PS3 controllers better...
 
just make sure that you don't wind up turned off by the stick because it works poorly. the fs series don't last long in my experience.
 
I fried a hori ex2 stick for the 360... just with a simple static shock... it's the gayest fucking thing EVER... If i bought a $250 custom, would the same thing happen?

Is there a way to prevent it?
 
They are not very good, is what most people say. The pcb is just to unreliable. Also, if American parts aren't your thing, there are better options anyways.
 
I fried a hori ex2 stick for the 360... just with a simple static shock... it's the gayest fucking thing EVER... If i bought a $250 custom, would the same thing happen?
I'd guess that it depends on the PCB used. A thicker case probably reduces the potential for shocks tho.

Is there a way to prevent it?
Easiest way is to reduce potential static buildup. Wearing shoes/socks tend to build it up way more. If that's impractical, you can set the stick down before you move. It's the movement that tends to generate the charge. Then you can just tap a chunk of metal before you pick up the stick again.
 
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