KnightSpirit
[09] Warrior
A lot of people have the impression that auto-gi are very risky moves, and they are only good for style point. Why risk an auto-gi when I can simply block my opponent's attack? But constant blocking means you are allowing an un-pressure opponent to invade your territory, and nothing is more dangerous than an opponent who is free to do whatever he likes during a match. Not to mention the issue with soul gauge damage and CF.
A successful auto-gi can put tremendous mental pressure on your opponent, because you are STEALING his turn to attack (you are countering at disadvantage frame) and you give the impression that you are reading him like a book. This will FORCE your opponent to change his game plan, forcing your opponent to do something else is very different from your opponent changing his tactic to confuse you. Because YOU are the one in control, and you are preventing them to play the game the way they wants to be play.
Of course you can't just throw auto-gi out randomly with a success rate of 1/10 and expect to SCARE your opponent with it.... an auto gi attempt that work 3/4 times is much better then something that only work randomly.
So what it really boil down to is how to improve your success rate and reduce the risk of an gi-attempt.
Risk comes from not know what you are doing, so once you know the nature of the game, you will find that auto-gi is actually something VERY practical.
Here's a few pointer guide line to get you started... you can test and see if my insight is correct in your meta, but they should be quite accurate in most mid-high level meta.
But here's the number 1 rule, you cannot go for a GI-attempt when your opponent already knew that you trying to go for one. This will only get you kill. So if you have been trying to pull off auto-gi the pass few matches with no success, then stop trying. Wait till your opponent feels that you are just playing normally then try again later. Practicing auto-gi when your opponent know about it is completely impractical and useless.
1) Learn to read pattern:
I'm not asking you to read how he is going to attack you, just what he will do at a specific situation that YOU create. I often try a few GI-bait move, and study how he react to that situation.
For example: 4B non-counter hit is negative frame on hit, so a good player will often use a fast interrupt on you right after. So if I land 4B-non CH in Round 1, and he does a quick 2A... then I land 4B again in Round 2, and he did a quick 2A again... then chances are the next time I land 4B non-CH, he will do 2A again...
Example 2: after your opponent block 4A or 6A, as long as they don't suspect a GI attempt, they will usually strike with a quick interrupt. So study what he will do in that situation, if your assumption is correct, you should be able to land A+K auto gi next time in the same situation.
Example 3: after your opponent block 3K, you are at minor disadvantage. So usually you can go for a 22A step counter hit combo in that situation. To prevent this, again your opponent will usually do a quick horizontal interupt on you (such as 2A). This will give you another opportunity for auto-gi, so study what he will do after blocking 3K, if he normally do strong verticals, then do 22A step combo next time he block 3K, but if he is aware of your stepping, then you will be good for A+K gi attempt.
There are a lot more example like the above, the idea is to study what your opponent will do when you are at minor disadvantage, if they do vertical, then step them enough with 22A so that they will want to interrupt you with fast horizontals attacks and vice-verse.
2) Know the general rules:
Just like a regular GI, you don't need to know what attack your opponent will use, you just need to know what TYPE of attack he will use to throw at you.
Here's my observation:
- Most powerful WS attacks are MID, so during wake up game, a relic GI attempt is usually a good idea since it GI all mid.
- When you two are at a distance, most charging-in attacks are mid as well. Meaning 66/33/99-whatever... the one that are not mid usually require a much closer distance. So if your opponent is charging in and he run past your Safety distance... then you should go something else, maybe a relic A or relic duck instead of relic GI.
- When you are at minor disadvantage, good player will often do a quick horizontal to prevent you from stepping them. (opportunity for A+K gi)
- The closer you are to your opponent, the less likely they will do B attacks, and the more likely they will do quick interupt.
- A+K is best against player who thinks 2A is KING, because you win big in the Risk vs Reward game. So if you ever face an opponent who will spam 2A whenever he is at minor disadvantage, try to punish them with auto-gi.
I guess that's enough for now, I will add to this when I think of something else. Hope you will find it useful.
A successful auto-gi can put tremendous mental pressure on your opponent, because you are STEALING his turn to attack (you are countering at disadvantage frame) and you give the impression that you are reading him like a book. This will FORCE your opponent to change his game plan, forcing your opponent to do something else is very different from your opponent changing his tactic to confuse you. Because YOU are the one in control, and you are preventing them to play the game the way they wants to be play.
Of course you can't just throw auto-gi out randomly with a success rate of 1/10 and expect to SCARE your opponent with it.... an auto gi attempt that work 3/4 times is much better then something that only work randomly.
So what it really boil down to is how to improve your success rate and reduce the risk of an gi-attempt.
Risk comes from not know what you are doing, so once you know the nature of the game, you will find that auto-gi is actually something VERY practical.
Here's a few pointer guide line to get you started... you can test and see if my insight is correct in your meta, but they should be quite accurate in most mid-high level meta.
But here's the number 1 rule, you cannot go for a GI-attempt when your opponent already knew that you trying to go for one. This will only get you kill. So if you have been trying to pull off auto-gi the pass few matches with no success, then stop trying. Wait till your opponent feels that you are just playing normally then try again later. Practicing auto-gi when your opponent know about it is completely impractical and useless.
1) Learn to read pattern:
I'm not asking you to read how he is going to attack you, just what he will do at a specific situation that YOU create. I often try a few GI-bait move, and study how he react to that situation.
For example: 4B non-counter hit is negative frame on hit, so a good player will often use a fast interrupt on you right after. So if I land 4B-non CH in Round 1, and he does a quick 2A... then I land 4B again in Round 2, and he did a quick 2A again... then chances are the next time I land 4B non-CH, he will do 2A again...
Example 2: after your opponent block 4A or 6A, as long as they don't suspect a GI attempt, they will usually strike with a quick interrupt. So study what he will do in that situation, if your assumption is correct, you should be able to land A+K auto gi next time in the same situation.
Example 3: after your opponent block 3K, you are at minor disadvantage. So usually you can go for a 22A step counter hit combo in that situation. To prevent this, again your opponent will usually do a quick horizontal interupt on you (such as 2A). This will give you another opportunity for auto-gi, so study what he will do after blocking 3K, if he normally do strong verticals, then do 22A step combo next time he block 3K, but if he is aware of your stepping, then you will be good for A+K gi attempt.
There are a lot more example like the above, the idea is to study what your opponent will do when you are at minor disadvantage, if they do vertical, then step them enough with 22A so that they will want to interrupt you with fast horizontals attacks and vice-verse.
2) Know the general rules:
Just like a regular GI, you don't need to know what attack your opponent will use, you just need to know what TYPE of attack he will use to throw at you.
Here's my observation:
- Most powerful WS attacks are MID, so during wake up game, a relic GI attempt is usually a good idea since it GI all mid.
- When you two are at a distance, most charging-in attacks are mid as well. Meaning 66/33/99-whatever... the one that are not mid usually require a much closer distance. So if your opponent is charging in and he run past your Safety distance... then you should go something else, maybe a relic A or relic duck instead of relic GI.
- When you are at minor disadvantage, good player will often do a quick horizontal to prevent you from stepping them. (opportunity for A+K gi)
- The closer you are to your opponent, the less likely they will do B attacks, and the more likely they will do quick interupt.
- A+K is best against player who thinks 2A is KING, because you win big in the Risk vs Reward game. So if you ever face an opponent who will spam 2A whenever he is at minor disadvantage, try to punish them with auto-gi.
I guess that's enough for now, I will add to this when I think of something else. Hope you will find it useful.