Automotive Help

HRD said:
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HRD
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HRD, you need to post a pic of your ride. I wanna see what ur driving.

edit; I also got my headlights changed. I went on and changed them all cause I don't want to have to do this again anytime soon!

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I just picked up a '55 buick special bout a month ago. Its in pieces right now, but ill throw something up this weekend!!!

HRD
 
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Just picked it up a few weeks ago. Dispite what you think, its actually not in horrible shape.

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This is more or less what Im after. different color scheme. Im thinkin 2 tone black and red with red interior

HRD
 
u got that right. Believe it or not it actaully runs, and still had working brakes. Motor tranny and rear end are out getting cleaned and "played with"

The body has not a whole lot or rust, has some in the trunk and front floor boards, which are easily replaced. Im pretty excited. Ill be a long term project.

HRD
 
So my transmission pan is still leaking, I already had the same shop replace the gasket twice earlier this month. What could be causing this?
 
NDK said:
So my transmission pan is still leaking, I already had the same shop replace the gasket twice earlier this month. What could be causing this?
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Holy crap....time for a new ride holmes. Hopefully this isnt all the same trouble you had from the beggining

anyway to answer your question:

A transmission pan is a very simple thing. Prolly looks like this
DSCF0447.jpg


as you can see, its nothing more than a shallow pan with a gasket. Technically your are NOT supposed to put ANY kind of silicone or sealants on the gasket. Cause it could come lose and get into the filters and clog them. BUT, you can however put some what we mechanics call "Gorilla Snot" better known as Weather stripping adhesive.

If you look closley at the bottom of that pic....you see the ridge that rides along the pan where the gasket would ride. That in comonation with the bolt holes being tightened and loosened, could have slightly bent those things causeing the gasket not to seal properly. It is easily fixed with a flat surface and a hammer.

If thats not it, then there are a few more seals that could be leaking. You have a front pump seal and a rear extension housing seal. But they would have different characteristics as far as WHERE you see the leaks are coming from.

Im really frustrated for you. If I were you Id be fuckin pissed and calling that Bureau I told you about. You paid for a service, YOU DID NOT GET THAT SERVICE!!! Sounds like the shop is taking advantage of your ignorance and its pissing me off. I have a hankering to call the fuckin place myself and handle it for you. But your a big boy. Im sure you can handle this.

When yall come to the pasadena tourney, Im brining some tools and shit, and Im taking a look at that fucking thing myself. Ill tell what the fuck is wrong and what needs to be fixed. You were also complaining about the speed sensor and the rear main. Have any of those been fixed?? If not you need to do something dude cause you is getting ripped off!!

If you want you can fax me the invoices from the place and I can take a look at them and really see whats going on. I wanna help any way I can, lemme know what you need me to do!!

HRD
 
I'll stop being lazy and give you the whole timeline of whats happened.

A few months ago my tranny started shaking in reverse. At this point I had no leaks. I figured I would get a tranny service to see how much it would help and go from there. So I got it done (different shop). That very same day it was serviced I noticed a hint of a burning smell, I figured it was some excess fluid and would burn off. A week later it was still there so i took the car back and they tell me its the oil sending unit, rear crank seal and speed sensor leaking. It seemed kinda fishy to me but they gave me some mechanic jibberish that flew over my head, they did good work for me before so i gave them the benefit of the doubt and had them replace the speed sensor and OilSU.

It was a few weeks later I started to notice fluid on the ground that I assumed to be oil (thats when i was thinking rear crank but i guess the oil was never hitting ground after all).
I got a second opinion on the rear crank seal and it was confirmed. Thats when i found this current shop to fix it for 350. While its in the shop they called me and told me a couple things 1) they found motor oil in my transmission pan 2) my speed sensor and trans gasket were leaking.
Now as im typing it just hit me that it looks like its the first shop that fucked me lol. Im gonna call those bastards tomorrow.
 
NDK said:
I'll stop being lazy and give you the whole timeline of whats happened.

A few months ago my tranny started shaking in reverse. At this point I had no leaks. I figured I would get a tranny service to see how much it would help and go from there. So I got it done (different shop). That very same day it was serviced I noticed a hint of a burning smell, I figured it was some excess fluid and would burn off. A week later it was still there so i took the car back and they tell me its the oil sending unit, rear crank seal and speed sensor leaking. It seemed kinda fishy to me but they gave me some mechanic jibberish that flew over my head, they did good work for me before so i gave them the benefit of the doubt and had them replace the speed sensor and OilSU.

It was a few weeks later I started to notice fluid on the ground that I assumed to be oil (thats when i was thinking rear crank but i guess the oil was never hitting ground after all).
I got a second opinion on the rear crank seal and it was confirmed. Thats when i found this current shop to fix it for 350. While its in the shop they called me and told me a couple things 1) they found motor oil in my transmission pan 2) my speed sensor and trans gasket were leaking.
Now as im typing it just hit me that it looks like its the first shop that fucked me lol. Im gonna call those bastards tomorrow.
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that is the biggest crock of shit IVE EVER HEARD. In NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM is the engine oil come in even close contact with the transmission. that absolutly CANNOT happen.......unless......Someone did it on purpose/accident.

If the first shop indeed did put oil in your tranny instead of tranny fluid, then I can see all this happening. Tranny fluid and engine oil serve 2 totally different purposes. Im suprised thats all the problems you have.

You need to contact the originial shop ASAP, and at least let them know that you are having these issues. You need to keep all paperwork and tell the current shop that you want ALL thier findings thourghly documented!! Including engine oil in the transmission and speed sensor and gaskets and ALL that shit. Hopefully the place where you got the tranny originally serviced is not some dumb ass "jiffy lube" type place.

You need to more or less judge them on thier attitude towards your problem. If they seem helpful, then by all means, give them a chance to fix thier mistake. But if they dont seem very helpful, then theres different steps for that.

So Im curious for a more clarifying explanation of the oil in the tranny. Did they say like it was FULL of oil INSTEAD of tranny fluid, or was there just a little oil mixed in with the tranny fluid. Cause if its the later of the 2.....thats absolute bullshit!!!

HRD
 
The first thing they said was "who was the last person to touch your tranny because there is motor oil mixed in and oil does not run anywhere near the tranny" they explained it as a mixture since they could see the t fluid seperating from the oil
 
NDK said:
The first thing they said was "who was the last person to touch your tranny because there is motor oil mixed in and oil does not run anywhere near the tranny" they explained it as a mixture since they could see the t fluid seperating from the oil
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ok good. Thats exactly right. If you were to take some red kool-aid and put in a couple drops of engine oil in it, you would see more or less what hes talkin bout.

OK....so now we have an issue thats clear now. Get in contact with the shop that did the orignial tranny service. They need to be notified right away. And tell the other shop that you need thourough documentation of ALL work that was done and for what reason and ALL issues that they found, and that ALL needs to be presented TO THE MANAGER OR OWNER of the orignial shop. Dont even talk to anyone that is NOT one of those 2 people.

That would totally explain all the leaks that seem to be coming out of every possible place on that tranny. It would explain the speed sensor not working properly. If this were me, I would be getting a new tranny. I would raise such a fuss and make such a huge scene that I would get it I promise you!!

So as I said before, get ALL your documentation/reciepts and present them to the manager/owner of the orignial place. Take notice of thier attitude, if they seem like they wanna help then by all means let them try to fix thier mistake. If not then this is a PERFECT case for the Bureau of Automotive Repair.

What a lot of shops TRY to do in these cases.....Obviously its gonna cost them quite a bit of money to fix this, rather thats a refund for you from what the other shop did + a new tranny, so they will say something to the effect of "well yes we did this to your car, but we are only resonsible for blah blah blah, so in turn mr NDK you owe me this much money...." Thats horse shit!! You paid for a service that not only did you get fucked on, but cost you more money to fix it. Not one fuckin dime should come out of your pocket. PERIOD!! as a matter of fact if you played your cards right, you could get a refund for all the work

HRD
 
So I called the original shop owner he said if its been less than 3 months a warranty will cover it, if its more than 3 months he'll only charge me half price. I looked into it and it turns out its been 4 months since it was done. Im just so tired of this, all i want is my car to stop leaking. What now?
 
All right. Thats actually typical shop warranty, 90 days! BUT....Youve been spending some of that 4 months chasing down an issue that THEY CAUSED!!

And half price of what? a new tranny? that could be a couple grand to begin with.

I hate to say it, but dude you gotta get ahold of the bureau. The whole 90 day warranty thing might be slightly on thier side TBH, but you need to explain to them that, you were chasing problems that were caused by them and by the time you found out the warranty is gone. That aint fair!! The B.A.R. has the power to MAKE them fix it, or at least pay for having it fixed!! These people DO NOT fuck around. They are a bunch of nerds behind a desk that got nothing else better to do. You will get results within days!!!

If the original shop is found to be not at fault for whatever reason (which I highly dought) you take your lumps like a man and you learned something very valuable. the owner is not being totally unfair. Which is a positive. He couldve told you to go fuck yourself. He probablly said something to the effect of "Ill check it out, but if I find out it wasnt my fault, I charge you full price." trust me, I do that shit all the time. Its very easy to make it look like it wasnt your fault and then convince you the same. And then youll be calling the BAR then and it will just prolong things!!

Do it now. They will help you rather its thier fault or not!! You need to get that shit fixed before pasadena gets here!! you need to jump on this shit now, cause im DYEING to smack you around.....LOL

HRD
 
I'm not a car person, so bare with me on the lingo and whatnot.

My Dodge Derango apparently has a bad computer. When it gets to a certain temperature, it shutsdown for about 10-20 minutes, sometimes longer. We keep jugs of water in the car to help cool it down, but it doesn't help very much.

How would I fix this?
 
DeathInMyEyes said:
I'm not a car person, so bare with me on the lingo and whatnot.

My Dodge Derango apparently has a bad computer. When it gets to a certain temperature, it shutsdown for about 10-20 minutes, sometimes longer. We keep jugs of water in the car to help cool it down, but it doesn't help very much.

How would I fix this?
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OK...Bare with me as well, Ill try to explain things as best I can.

1st off there are a couple questions. How do you know you have a bad computer? Are there any "check engine" lights on in the Dash? What year is it and what engine is in it?

Ill start with the easy stuff:
Keeping jugs of water in the truck to keep it cool tells me you are losing water somewhere. That needs to be figured out first! Could have anything from a leaky water pump, radiator, thermostat etc. ANy half ass repair shop should be able to tell you whats wrong there.
ALSO: Putting straight water in the engine does 2 things....It creates rust inside the engine that could eventually cause a clog that will give you trouble AND, water will just evaporate of small periods of time making you have to put more water in it. What it needs is anit freeze. BUT you wanna figure out what is leaking first BEFORE you go buying antifreeze to the tune of about $8.00 a gallon........

OK now the tricky stuff:
Im curious to know what makes you think you need a computer. To give you a short breakdown, the computer is the brain of your engine, it sends ELECTRONIC signals to the several sensors that you have on the engine and tell them what to do. if you do indeed have a computer problem you would have "check engine" lights on, the truck would run like shit (if run at all!!). But it wont cause your engine to LOSE WATER!! The only thing COOLANT related the computer controls is whats known as a "coolant temperature sensor". Basiclly the sensor tells the computer what temperature the engine is, in turn the computer will tell all the other sensors to adjust accordingly so that they can all work together.

So unless you got 2 different problems....they are NOT related to each other!

Now....On some of the late model chryslers....They have whats known as a "low coolant level" sensor. If that sensor is triggered, it will throw the check engine light on indcating to you that there is a problem. (the "check engine" light I think looks like a little engine picture of an engine, i cant remember atm) that little light DOESNT mean you have a bad computer, its just a signal to you that something is wrong and you need to get it checked!!

I hope I made some sense. If not just feel free to hit me up with what you dont understand! Always glad to help!!

TO ALL THOSE THAT READ THIS POST: Chrysler, plymouth, dodge, jeep....are kind pieces of shit. If youre in the market to buy one, ask me and I can tell what is good and what has issues. Keep in mind ANY car that is well maintained and taken care of will last a long time. But some manufacturer's are worse than others.

HRD
 
As far as I know, the car doesn't have a leak of any kind.

And a mechanic-friend of my Mom's, apparently, told her that the computer was bad. But I've always thought that sounded rather... bullshitty.

The car isn't losing any water from what I can tell, it just shuts down when it gets to be too hot. We keep the jugs of water to help cool it down, so that we aren't stranded forever. But if it that's a bad thing, we should probably stop.

Also, there are no check engine lights. At least, I've yet to see one.

As for the year, I have no clue. I'll have to ask and get back to you.

And HRD, man, thanks so much. This car has been giving my family trouble for a while now.
 
Well coolant just doesnt disappear. It leaks out somewhere. Putting straight water back in it, youll get the "evaporating" effect, which at the very least would explain where SOME water is going. But it would take a while for the evaporating to take place to where the coolant level was low enough to overheat. Like if your putting water in it everyday, hell every week for that matter. Thats still not quite fast enough to evaporate to make a difference.

An engine runs at about 210 degress. when you start breaking that plane, ur car "overheats". After constant over heating and cooling down (rinse lather repeat) the engine doesnt like that. You run the risk of blowing head gaskets (which can be a very costly repair) or worse yet, cracking cylinder heads and engine blocks. Its gonna be really important that you get this "missing coolant" thing figured out really quick! Or you could potentially damage the engine. Making a couple hundred dollar repair into a couple thousand dollar repair.

The whole computer being bad thing, I dont buy. I have been dicking around with cars since I was 8 years old (20+ years). Ive had to replace only very few computers. I guess that Ive worked on literally thousands of cars, and I can count on 2 hands how many times a computer was actually bad. If you ahve no "check engine" lights on then either your computer is fine an detects NO issues or the light bulb for the gauge is burnt out. When you first stick in the key and turn it, the little check engine light should come on for a few seconds. That will tell you if the bulb is burnt or not. I dont personally think there is anything wrong computer wise. But the constant running hot of the engine is pretty important to figure out ASAP!! You dont want to damage the engine any further than you have.

The coolant has to be going somewhere. So you notice white steam coming out the exhaust pipes, any drips or puddles on the ground? anything like that? Something you personally can do........... When the engine is completly cool. Pop the hood and squeze the top radiator hose. You should be able to feel no pressure and be able to squeeze it with ease. When the engine is completly warmed up, the upper and lower radiator hoses should be pretty stiff. As in if you try to squeeze them, you wont be able to. You can try warming up the engine, popping the hood, and grad the top radiator hose. Careful cause it will be hot. You should feel some kind of pressure. Compared to when you squeezed it when it was cold, you should feel a dramatic difference.

If not.....then there is a problem. A coolant system (which consists of radiator, hoses, water pump, heater hoses thermostat, etc) is a sealed system. And your typical chrysler holds about 15 to 18 pounds of pressure (you can check the top of the radiator cap and see what pressure it runs at.) If you do not feel any pressure then it is escaping somewhere. It may very well not be obvious as in you may not be able to see it from the outside. ALSO.....pull the engine oil dipstick, if the oil looks like a chocolate milkshake, then you have blown a head gasket and needs to be fixed right away.

Chysler engines are pieces of shit. They crack heads (which I wouldnt be suprised to see) and drop valve seats when things get over heated. A dodge durango depending on what year has either a 5.9 or a 4.7 v8. Both engines are garbage, they actually keep me in business so I hope they continue to make these pieces of shit!! Get this thing nipped in the bud ASAP, it could be the difference between an easy fix or a costly one!!

And DIME....ur welcome. If your parents have any questions or comments or anything, tell them to hit me up as well. I dont mind. They can even call me if they want. Ill PM you the number if they do. Its what I do for a living. Granted they may not take me seriously cause after all Im a mechanic/machinst that is on a video game web site. But Id love to help If I can

HRD
 
Okay, I talked to my mom just a little while ago.

There IS a check engine light. But it only lights up when the car is about to shut down.

I don't remember what all she said, but she said something about it passing the ISC test or whatever. She's apparently been studying her ass off.
 
DeathInMyEyes said:
Okay, I talked to my mom just a little while ago.

There IS a check engine light. But it only lights up when the car is about to shut down.

I don't remember what all she said, but she said something about it passing the ISC test or whatever. She's apparently been studying her ass off.
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Damn....cool, mom seems to be on it. Not sure what she means by a ISC test. But Im still not convinced that the whole computer is bad. Like I was saying before, If the computer was not good, the truck would run like shit, if run at all!! AND the check engine light would be on at all times.

The reason it shuts down is cause there is a sensor that detects when the engine is getting to hot. And when that happens it will shut the engine off completly! Having the light come on right when that is supposed to happen is normal. That IS what its supposed to do. Doesnt mean the computer is bad.

Regardless....the over heating should be the main concern ATM. I would almost bet money that is you figure out what is causing the overheating (leaks somewhere I promise) that the computer thing will take care of itself! Ask mom if the computer thing and the adding water thing came on at the same time or not. Ill bet they did!!

I prolly shouldnt suggest this at this point but....There is a way to reset your computer. Take the NEGATIVE battery terminal off the battery and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Now when I say 5 minutes, I mean 5 minutes, not a few minutes, not a minute. five fuckin MINUTES!! I dont think that will change anything, but something to fuck around with.

So Im assuming that when the engine shuts down, you pop the radiator cap off and the water is low and you have to fill it up....yes? If thats the case, then the computer is doing its job. The computer isnt bad!!

HRD
 
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